How to Buy a Sapphire: The Augustine Jewels Guide

Few gemstones have quite the allure of sapphire. Celebrated for centuries for its extraordinary colour, natural rarity and exceptional durability, sapphire is one of the world's most treasured gemstones. While blue is the colour most commonly associated with sapphire, natural sapphires occur in a remarkable spectrum of shades, from delicate pink and vivid yellow to rich green, orange, purple and the exceptionally rare padparadscha. At Augustine Jewels, we believe choosing a gemstone should be a personal experience. If you're indulging in luxurious, you need to feel truly happy with your choice of gemstone. Every natural sapphire is unique, with its own colour, character and story. Here is our guide to understanding what makes a sapphire special and what to look for when choosing one.

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What is a Sapphire?

Sapphire is the gemstone variety of corundum, a naturally occurring mineral formed deep within the earth over geological timescales. Although best known for its blue variety, sapphire can occur in almost every colour.

Trace elements present within the crystal as it forms are responsible for its extraordinary range of colour. Red corundum is classified as ruby, while other colours are known as sapphires or fancy-coloured sapphires. Sapphire is also exceptionally durable. 

Measuring 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness, it is second only to diamond among naturally occurring gemstones commonly used in jewellery. This makes it particularly well suited to pieces intended to be worn and treasured for generations.

Where Do Natural Sapphires Come From?

Natural sapphires are found in countries across the world, with different regions producing their own distinctive colours and characteristics.

Kashmir is legendary for exceptionally rare sapphires with an intense, velvety blue appearance. Sri Lanka, historically known as Ceylon, is renowned for its bright, lively blue sapphires and extraordinary range of fancy colours. Myanmar has produced some exceptional deep blue sapphires, while Madagascar is celebrated for its remarkable diversity of colour.

Other important sources include Australia, Montana in the United States, Thailand, Cambodia, Nigeria and Ethiopia. Origin can form an important part of a sapphire's story and, for exceptional stones, can influence rarity and desirability. However, the beauty and quality of the individual gemstone should always come first.

How to Buy a Blue Sapphire

Blue sapphire is the classic sapphire colour, but there is no single shade of blue that defines a beautiful stone. Natural blue sapphires can range from delicate, light blues to deep, intensely saturated shades, with subtle violet, green or teal influences.

When choosing a blue sapphire, consider the 4Cs: Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight.

Colour: Hue, Tone and Saturation

Colour is perhaps the most important consideration when choosing a sapphire.

Hue

Hue describes the basic colour of the gemstone. A blue sapphire can be pure blue, violetish blue, greenish blue or somewhere between. Fine blue sapphires are often prized for their rich blue colour, while teal and blue-green sapphires offer a more unusual and contemporary character.

Tone

Tone describes how light or dark the sapphire appears. Medium to medium-dark blue sapphires are often particularly desirable, offering a balance between depth and brightness. A stone that is too dark can lose its luminosity, while a very light sapphire may have less depth of colour.

Saturation

Saturation describes the strength and intensity of the colour. Look for a sapphire with strong, vivid colour that remains bright and lively. The most beautiful stones often achieve a wonderful balance between saturation and tone.

The Many Shades of Blue Sapphire

Kashmir Blue

Among the most coveted sapphires in the world, Kashmir sapphires are celebrated for their intensely saturated blue colour and distinctive velvety appearance.

Ceylon Blue

Sapphires from Sri Lanka are renowned for their bright, luminous blues and can range from delicate lighter shades through to richer, more saturated colours.

Burmese Blue

Fine sapphires from Myanmar can display exceptional depth and intensity of blue and are highly sought after by collectors.

Madagascan Blue

Madagascar produces a remarkable variety of blue sapphires, from lighter, vivid blues to deeper shades.

Australian Blue

Australian sapphires are often associated with deeper blues and can have distinctive green or grey undertones.

Montana and Teal

Montana sapphires are particularly known for their blue-green and teal colours. Teal sapphires sit beautifully between blue and green and offer an individual alternative to traditional blue.

Clarity and Cut

Natural sapphires commonly contain inclusions, and these can be part of their character and evidence of their natural formation.

Rather than expecting a sapphire to be completely flawless, consider whether its inclusions affect its beauty, transparency or durability. A beautifully coloured sapphire with minor inclusions can be far more appealing than a perfectly clean stone with weak colour.

Cut is equally important. A well-cut sapphire should appear bright, balanced and full of life, allowing its colour to interact beautifully with light. Look at the gemstone from different angles and, where possible, in different lighting. A beautiful sapphire should continue to captivate beyond a single setting or light source.

Carat Weight 

Carat refers to the weight of the sapphire rather than its visual size. Larger sapphires of exceptional quality are naturally rarer, but size should not be the only consideration. A smaller sapphire with extraordinary colour and a beautiful cut can be considerably more desirable than a larger stone with less appealing characteristics.

How to Buy Pink, Yellow and Other Sapphires

Blue may be the classic choice, but natural sapphires are available in an extraordinary range of colours. When choosing a fancy-coloured sapphire, the same principles apply: consider hue, tone, saturation, clarity, cut and carat weight.

Pink Sapphire

Pink sapphires range from soft blush and pastel shades through to vivid, intensely saturated pink. Consider whether the stone leans towards purple, red or orange, as well as how light or dark the colour appears and how vivid the saturation is.

Yellow Sapphire

Yellow sapphires range from delicate lemon shades to rich golden hues. Look for an attractive balance of yellow hue, tone and saturation. A beautifully saturated golden sapphire can have remarkable warmth and presence.

Orange Sapphire

Orange sapphires can range from orange-yellow through to rich, vivid orange and reddish-orange. The most striking examples combine strong saturation with a pleasing medium tone.

Padparadscha

One of the rarest and most distinctive sapphire colours, padparadscha is associated with a delicate combination of pink and orange. Its soft, sunset-like colour makes it particularly sought after, and its rarity makes it an especially fascinating choice for collectors.

Green Sapphire

Green sapphires can range from yellowish green through to bluish green and deeper shades. Look for an attractive hue, good saturation and a pleasing tone. Green sapphire offers a wonderfully individual alternative to the more traditional blue.

Purple and Violet Sapphire 

Purple and violet sapphires range from delicate lilac to rich, intense purple. As with every sapphire, consider the relationship between hue, tone and saturation to find a colour with the balance you love.

The Sapphire Buying Checklist

When choosing a natural sapphire, consider:

Colour – Look at hue, tone and saturation together.

Clarity – Natural inclusions are part of a sapphire's character, but should not detract from its beauty or durability.

Cut – Look for a gemstone that is bright, balanced and lively.

Carat – Consider size, but don't let it overshadow colour and overall beauty.

Origin – Provenance can add to a sapphire's story and, in exceptional cases, its rarity.

Natural origin – If you are making a significant purchase, an independent gemmological report can provide reassurance that your sapphire is natural. Most importantly, choose the sapphire that speaks to you.

Finding Your Sapphire

There is no single formula for finding the perfect sapphire. Perhaps you are drawn to the velvety depth of a Kashmir blue, the luminous colour of a Ceylon sapphire, the individuality of a natural teal, the warmth of a golden yellow or the delicate romance of pink. Every sapphire is different. Its colour, inclusions, proportions and natural characteristics combine to create a gemstone that is entirely its own. The perfect sapphire is not necessarily the largest or rarest stone. It is the one whose colour and character you will continue to love for years to come.

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